intro to winter mountaineering
2 day Course
For those that have worn crampons and used an ice axe, but want to develop winter mountaineering techniques; getting to grips with ice axes and crampons for more assured movement in steeper terrain and looking at basic rope work and snow anchors.
Our courses are based predominately in The Cairngorms for more reliable for snow and ice conditions. We may make use of Ben Nevis and Glen Coe on your course should conditions allow and routes be suitable for your ability.
2 DAY COURSE
PRICES:£295pp
50% deposit secures your booking
OVERVIEW
This winter mountaineering course is designed to help the winter walker progress into steeper terrain such as open snow slopes and easy gullies.
We hope to develop skills to allow access into the high mountains when covered in snow and ice, giving you the technical knowledge to understand how to remain safe in this dynamic environment; we will be looking at good movement skills, decision making, judgement of the terrain and any methods of safeguarding such as ropework and snow anchors.
You will need a harness and helmet on this course.
We are hoping to help you progress onto graded mountaineering ground. We will be looking at moving as a rope team over this terrain and hope to tackle routes such as:
Number 4 gully
Ledge Route
Broad Gully
Fiaciall Ridge
East Ridge of Beinn a Chaorainn
COURSE OUTLINE
Gear and Equipment
Essential winter clothing, boots, crampons and axes.
Proper fitting of C2 crampons and other winter-specific gear
Route Planning and Avalanche Awareness
Identifying potential avalanche terrain and safe route selection.
Introduction to basic avalanche awareness and safety protocols.
Movement on steeper snow slopes
Look at using the boot as a tool, using the edges of the boot and kicking steps for security in steep, snowy ground.
Ice axe technique - for security and balance on steeper terrain and for cutting steps to aid movement up and down the slope
Ice Axe Braking/Self arrest
Looking at techniques from self belay through to halting a slip and arresting slides and tumbles, from feet first to head first and gaining control
Snow climbing Techniques
Safe movement on snow-covered slopes, including ascending and descending.
Use of crampons for front pointing, axes for swinging; hooking and torquing.
Basic winter scrambling techniques.
Introduction to Snow Anchors
Bucket seats, buried ice axes, & snow bollards - using them for ascent and descent
Rock gear in winter and utilising it for winter scrambles
Avalanche Awareness
To stay safe and develop understanding of a hazardous and dynamic landscape. We will look at weather forecasting, avalanche reports and observations of the snow in the real world when out on the hill
Winter Navigation
All those summer features become covered by snow; practice on a different scale map and winterise your navigation; looking at appropriate techniques and gaining confidence to navigate in white out conditions
EXAMPLE COURSE PROGRAMME
Day 1:
Making a plan
Hueristic traps
Planning for weather on the day
Formulating a plan for avalanche forecast
Equipment and its uses
Essential winter gear
Types of axes - more technical types for steep ground
Types of crampons (C2 crampons)
Boots and their importance
What ropes to take and why
Harnesses and correct fitting
Movement
Movement on steeper slopes
Front pointing
Front pointing on ice
Daggering
Re-cap self arrest if necessary
Moving safely up and down on steep terrain (such as managing a cornice)
Introduction to snow anchors
What are snow anchors
When to use them
How strong are they?
Types: bucket seat, buried axe, bollard
When each one is appropriate
Day 2:
Completion of a grade I or grade II winter scramble/mountaineering route (being guided)
Using example techniques from above
Movement
Consolidation of movement skills and scrambling/climbing techniques whilst on route
Snow anchors
Use of snow anchors for real on a route
Avalanches awareness
Building on existing knowledge to make safe decisions in steep ground
On the hill observations
Navigation
Further winter navigation
Usually find descents
Finding the start of the route form a guidebook
Over these days, in the background will be a constant theme of
Looking after yourself in the environment
Personal admin
Dealing with gloves and goggles and doing jobs in them (eating, accessing rucksack, doing up hoods, fitting crampons)
On the hill snow observations
BY THE END OF THE COURSE, YOU CAN EXPECT TO
Be able to look after yourself in steeper winter mountaineering terrain,
Understand your kit and its limitations in the winter environment,
Be more confident in ice axe and crampon techniques,
Understand snow belays and rope work for steep snow slopes,
Be a more confident navigator,
Be in a strong position to climb grade II winter mountaineering terrain such as gullies, ridges and steep snow slopes
2025 dates
Course Ratios
1:4 Ratio - Day 1: 4 people per 1 instructor
1:2 Ratio - Day 2: 2 people per 1 instructor
Our instructors can teach up to 2 people on this course.
This course is open to the public and has 4 spaces per course.
Minimum of 2 for courses to run in full. If you are the only booking, that will secure an instructor for one day.
Bespoke rates are:
1-1 £300
1-2 £330
Pre-Requisites
18+
Experience of hill walking in summer conditions.
Some basic winter walking or a winter skills is beneficial to help get the most from the programme.
You will need to be fit enough to be able to walk in the snow carrying a rucksack. Ben Nevis walk ins are around 2 hours in duration.
The Winter Mountain Skills - 2 Day is a good pre-cursor to this course and will help you arrive with the right experience
Please contact us to discuss regarding any queries
Equipment
All technical equipment can be provided & hired from LDM.
Crampons & axes can be hired for the course
You will need to wear suitable outdoor clothing and have appropriate mountain footwear
(B2 boots - these are rigid to take crampons)
Crampons £10 per day
Ice Axe £10 per day
As a set £15 per day
We have a selection of boots to hire subject to sizes and availability
Boot hire is £10 per pair, per day
Read more here in our blog about kit and equipment
Venue
On the first day, we will meet you at the Ski Centre car park in the Northern Cairngorms, for meet and greet.
We will meet the evening before for an avalanche talk, weather forecasting and kit hire and organisation.
The course is based predominately in the Cairngorms but will head to Ben Nevis/Glen Coe to make use of routes/conditions if appropriate to do so - we can transport you over each day
Let us know if you recommendation for accommodation - this should be central to Aviemore as much as possible.
Not quite what you're looking for?
Hire our Lake District Mountaineering instructors for private and tailored programmes.
Suited to your goals & ambitions to make the most of YOUR time in the mountains.
Day rates:
1:1 £300
1:2 £330
CONTACT
We look forward to hearing from you and working towards your mountaineering ambitions and helping to achieve your goals.
Phone or WhatsApp:
07458353048
If calls are missed we will respond when possible, please leave a voicemail or text message where possible.
Thank you