Pillar Rock, located in the Western Fells of England's Lake District, is a fascinating feature of British mountaineering history. As part of Pillar Mountain, which rises above Ennerdale Valley, the rock is particularly notable for its imposing form and the early climbing feats associated with it.
Here is an excerpt from H.M Kelly in 'Pillar Rock and Neighbouring Climbs', written for the Fell and Rock Climbing Journal in 1923. Here he encapsulates the allure of Pillar Rock in his summary.
'The very remoteness of its surroundings, as well as the apparent inaccessibility of its summit, no doubt fascinated as well as awed the shepherds and others whose work or play took
them within the neighbourhood, and it's solitariness naturally became a challenge.
Early Guide Books, farm fireside talk, and inn gossip, undoubtedly clothed it with a certain
amount of romance.'
1. Discovery and Early Importance
Pillar Rock has been a well-known landmark for centuries due to its striking appearance. It is one of the largest rock formations in the Lake District and dominates the view from many points in the Ennerdale Valley. In the early 19th century, it caught the attention of locals and early adventurers as a potential challenge for climbing.
Pillar Rock became known as one of the many wonders of the Lake District, largely due to William Wordsworth and his poem, The Brothers.
You see yon precipice—it almost looks
Like some vast building made of many crags,
And in the midst is one particular rock
That rises like a column from the vale,
Whence by our Shepherds it is call'd, the Pillar.
— Wordsworth, The Brothers
The first recorded ascent of Pillar Rock took place in 1826, when John Atkinson, a shepherd of Croftfoot, Ennerdale, climbed it. This achievement made Pillar Rock one of the first climbing challenges tackled in Britain and marks the start of its association with early mountaineering.
Excluding Samuel Coleridge's accidental descent of Scafell (Broad Stand) in 1802, this is the earliest recorded rock climb in the Lake District. The route is graded Moderate.
2. Early Mountaineers and the Golden Age
After Atkinson’s initial ascent, Pillar Rock became a focus for Victorian climbers who were fascinated by the challenge it presented. Between 1826 and 1875, Pillar Rock had seen 119 ascents. The first 8 ascents were by the 'Old West Route' and there after new lines were opened up across the many different aspects/faces of the rock.
The 19th century was the Golden Age of British mountaineering. Some notable names that attribute to various climbs and pioneering ascents of the Pillar Rock include George Seatree, Rev. James Jackson, Thomas & Edward Westmorland, John W Robinson, Lehmann Oppenheimer, William Cecil Slingsby, Geoffrey Hastings, Walter Perry Haskett Smith, George and Ashely Abraham.
All household names of pioneering Lake District climbing. Some of these names can be seen on the war memorial that lies on the summit of Great Gable. The original memorial sits in the church yard at St. Olafs in Wasdale.
Women of Pillar Rock
It is always worth mentioning the pioneering women within this male dominated world of climbing. Some feats to note are, in 1870, the first female ascent was attributed to Miss A. Baker and there after Miss Mary Westmorland climbed the rock in 1873 (with her brothers Thomas and Edward) and then in 1875, Mrs Ann Crear was the third.
The Patriarch of the Pillarites
It is the second ascent mentioned here (Mary Westmorland) that sparks interest, as it gave way to the story known as the Patriarch of the Pillarites. Retired Rev. James Jackson proclaimed that the ascent must have been of the mountain and not the rock due to a female ascensionist. It was on his third ascent of the rock that the Reverend fell into Great Doup (Pillar Cove) and there is now a cross scribed into the rock at the place he was found.
In 1875, the self proclaimed Patriarch of the Pillarites wrote and sent a poem to Geroge Seatree (one of many throughout his years of obsession with the rock). This poem describes the ascents made by Anna Crear and here companions.
The Pillar smiled a sober smile,
When on his dizzy height,
Last day of May there proudly stood
An aged errant Knight!
But on the twentieth day of June,
His laugh was loud and long;
For never since his birth had been
On his top, so large a throng!
Two Johns, two Joes, Tom, Will, and Ann,
Were there a wondrous eight!
And the feat is now recorded by
The aged errant Knight.
To each the Pillar Patriarch gives
His hand and greets with joy;
In proof, to each he sends the lines
Of that wonderful Old Boy.
In youth he went to fight the French.
For King George upon his Throne;
And now he lives in health and peace
In his own cottage home.
When man, he wrote in small p.p.*
Expression of his charge;
But now he writes in age P.P.**
But they're in letters large.
June 23rd, 1875.
3. Development of Climbing Techniques
Pillar Rock played an important role in the development of early climbing techniques. The steep and exposed nature of the rock required careful navigation, route planning, and use of basic climbing equipment like ropes and makeshift protection. Although these techniques were rudimentary by today’s standards, they laid the foundation for modern rock climbing methods.
By the late 19th century, more climbers began visiting Pillar Rock, and multiple routes were developed on its various faces. These routes, including the North and East faces, were graded in difficulty, with climbers using the rock as a training ground for bigger challenges in the Alps and elsewhere.
In the latter part of the 19th Century, many harder routes were opened up by the likes of George Mallory, Walter Perry Haskett Smith and the Brothers Abraham.
Notably, "Mallory's Route", "New West Climb" and "North Climb".
Other notable feats around this time include ascents of "Savage Gully" & "Walkers Gully", "South West Climb" & "North West Climb". Many of these routes were climbed due to the craft and guile of all of these aforementioned climbers.
Significance in British Climbing
Pillar Rock became iconic in British climbing history. It was one of the first rock formations in the UK where technical climbing was practiced and documented. As a result, it contributed significantly to the growth of mountaineering as a sport. The Lake District itself, with its rugged landscape and challenging peaks, became a hub for climbers.
A key figure in Pillar Rock’s history was Owen Glynne Jones, a Welsh climber, who made notable ascents of various routes on the rock in the late 19th century. His work, along with that of his contemporaries, helped establish the Lake District as one of the leading climbing destinations in Britain.
The original prints of his book 'Rock Climbing in the English Lake District', published in 1897 are going for around £200 on the internet now.
5. Pillar in the Modern Day
In the 20th century, climbing techniques and equipment improved significantly, allowing more climbers to tackle the harder routes on Pillar Rock. By the mid-20th century, Pillar Rock had established itself not only as an important site for traditional climbing but also as a symbol of the pioneering spirit of British mountaineering.
It remains a popular climbing destination today, attracting both experienced rock climbers and those interested in its historical significance. Routes such as the "Slab and Notch" and "New West Route" have become classics, while the original Mountaineers' Route (Old West Route) continues to draw climbers eager to follow in the footsteps of early adventurers.
Reaching the Summit
Pillar Rock has a topographic prominence of more than 15 metres (49 ft), and thus qualifies for the list of "Nuttalls" compiled by John and Anne Nuttall in their book The Mountains of England and Wales.
It is also included in the tick list of Birkett's. There are 541 summits detailed in Bill Birkett's book, Complete Lakeland Fells.
Often, walkers complete the Wainwrights and move onto these tick lists afterwards. Wainwright would have never included Pillar Rock in his pictorial guides, as he recognises that rock climbing skills are needed to attain this summit.
Guiding on Pillar Rock
Due to Pillar Rock being a summit that cannot be reached without recourse to rock climbing many will feel the need to hire a guide. This has been long standing tradition, and many climbers would acquire the skills of a guide to get them to the top of many technical peaks.
George Seatree, mentioned above was one of the original guides, a devotee to the rock he guided many parties over a 10 year period in the 1880's.
Therefore should you be considering an ascent and need a guide, Lake District Mountaineering are of assistance to you.
Our guides are qualified, holding the necessary qualifications (MCI) and experience to take you to the summit.
Notable routes that we can guide you include:
Slab and Notch Climb (Moderate)
Old West Route (The Mountaineers Way) (Moderate)
New West Climb (VDiff)
Rib and Slab (HS)
Visit our guiding page to find out more:
Conclusion
Pillar Rock stands as a monument to the birth of British rock climbing and remains a significant site for mountaineers today. Its rich history, steeped in the feats of early pioneers, continues to attract climbers from around the world. Whether viewed as a historical landmark or an adventurous climbing challenge, Pillar Rock’s enduring legacy is an essential part of mountaineering history.
Comments