Gimmer Crag stands proudly on Loft Crag, high above the Langdale Valley with sweeping views of Bowfell , Crinkle Crags and Pike O' Blisco. This crag is our favourite Lakeland crag and offers a whole host of traditional rock climbs at a variety of grades; there is something here for everyone.
In this blog, we'll explore some recommended link ups and highlight our favourite routes that you simply must do.
Link Ups
For those seeking an extended adventure on Gimmer Crag, linking routes together can offer a more sustained and satisfying climbing experience. Here are a few classic link ups:
Middlefell Buttress to Gimmer Crag: Middlefell Buttress (D): First and foremost, head to Raven Crag and climb this classic route and link the Curtain Wall all the way to the Gimmer path. A great way to approach, taking in lots of climbing before you even reach Gimmer. Be careful this doesn't eat up time in your day though as Gimmer is the main event!
Ash Tree Slabs to D Route: Ash Tree Slabs (VD): Begin with this delightful slab climb, a perfect warm-up with good holds and pleasant moves. D Route (S): From the top of Ash Tree Slabs, continue onto D Route which offers a mix of technical climbing and exposure, making it an excellent continuation.
North West Arete to F Route: Nort West Arete (MVS 4b): Absolutely amazing positions on an exposed arete with good positive climbing all the way. F Route (VS 4c): Transition seamlessly into F Route, known for its sustained interest and fantastic positions. A brilliant corner crack that is fully sustained at the grade.
Ash Tree Corner to A Route
Ash Tree Corner (VS 4c): A slightly harder variation of Ash Tree Slabs if looking for something a bit more technical. Defintely worth doing and a little neglected; let's get some more traffic on this route.
A Route (S 4a): A great tour of the face at the grade, the exciting 40 foot corner is not to be missed.
Favourite Routes
Here are some of our favourite routes at the crag.
Kipling Groove (HVS 5a): This iconic route is a must-climb for its historical significance and thrilling moves. The groove itself provides an exhilarating challenge with superb protection.
Bracket and Slab (VS 4b): The 4b is just the first pitch, it gets easier after that. Bracket and Slab is a true test of balance and technique. The airy feel and exposure make it a memorable ascent.
C Route (S 4b): Classic rock, a brilliant second pitch but a little tricky at Severe. Amazing rock.
Spring Bank (E2 5c): On the same slab as Whit's End Direct, and tackling the same overhang but climbing just to the right. The gear placement is blind on the crux and its committing to the jug; but thrilling climbing all the way.
The Crack (VS 4c): The Crack, one of the best VS routes in the Lakes. A must do for any aspiring MCI and a must do for any VS climber. The top crack is tricky at the grade, in my opinion.
Intern (E1 5b): Steeper than it looks, a bit blind on holds when committing to the moves but brilliant. Good footwork is key but the holds are positive all the way. A great finale on the final section of North West Arete after the difficulties have eased.
Other routes not to be missed:
Whit's End Direct (E1 5b): For those looking to push into E1 territory, Whit's End Direct offers steep and technical climbing with excellent gear placements.
Gimmer Chimney (VD): Exposed, traditional and a brilliant top pitch.
Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl (VD): A nice easy tour of the west face.
Tips for Climbing at Gimmer Crag
Preparation: Ensure you have a good guidebook; the Langdale guidebook, the RockFax or Wired Guides all have a good list of routes at Gimmer. Make sure you have studied the routes beforehand.
Trad Climbing: Gimmer Crag is traditional, meaning you'll need to place your own protection, so be comfortable with this style of climbing. If you want learn check out these courses: https://www.lakedistrictmountaineering.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses
Abseiling: It is important to be proficient in abseiling techniques and understand the complexities due to abseil being the common way to descend. It will help you negotiate the crag better too. Half ropes are key.
Weather: The Lake District weather can be unpredictable. Check forecasts and be prepared for changing conditions. Gimmer drys quickly but can be chilly in the wind.
Gear: Bring a full rack of nuts and cams. Some micro cams for harder lines and totems are always useful too. Quickdraws and extender (alpine) draws (10-12 draws). Plenty of slings, belay device and nut key are essential.
Approach: The walk-in is relatively straightforward but involves a steep ascent. Good footwear and a reasonable level of fitness are essential.
Hire a Guide: Lake District Mountaineering are fully qualified to take you climbing on the mountain crags, whether you're looking for an experience, to learn how to climb or to climb Classic Rock; LDM has you covered.
Gimmer Crag offers something for every climber, from historic classics to challenging modern routes. Whether you're linking routes for an extended climb or focusing on a single standout line, the crag's beauty and variety are sure to provide a memorable experience.
Looking for an adventure on Gimmer Crag? Hire our Lake District Guides to maximise your time in the mountains and climb classic rock routes in the Lake District.
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